Posts Tagged ‘french’

Cellar Gascon

Monday, June 7th, 2010

Squid

This wine bar attached to the feted Club Gascon of foie gras fame is a bit like a virgin visit to France after seeing loads of nouvelle vague films. It’s as smart, swish and chic as you expect, with the odd seemingly familiar thing that turns out to be not quite what you think.

So there we were, the estimable Meemalee, Chris and myself, perched at a high table in an almost empty bar eyeing the specials speculatively. I, for one, was feeling terribly decadent. This is not the sort of place I usually head for a Friday lunch. And it all seemed rather good, in a cool Alain Delon kind of way. (more…)

Bistro Bruno Loubet

Wednesday, April 7th, 2010

Potted shrimp and smoked mackerel
86-88 Clerkenwell Road, London, EC1M 5RJ, 020 7324 4455, www.thezetter.com/en/Restaurant

Here is somewhere that’s made the critical cup overfloweth with stars and top ratings, ten-out-of-tens and complements aplenty. This, it seems, is the return of the prodigal son.

Whatever. He’s back, Bruno Loubet has returned from Oz. And boy – judging by the reviews – are the critics glad to see him. All of which, you’d think, would lead to a mighty anti climax when you actually ate there. Right? Well… not really. (more…)

A Boudin Blanc lunch

Sunday, March 21st, 2010

Dandelion & braised leek salad

Boudin Blanc is a shrine to the French bistro as the English imagine it to be – all dark wood, big plates and hearty cooking. There’s no fancy fusion or haut cuisine. From poached fish in butter and cream sauce to snails by the dozen, it’s bistro classics all the way.

But just because it’s not full of surprises, that doesn’t meant it’s not good. The food here is classic, sure, but it’s classically good…well, classically great actually. (more…)