Return to the Eastside Inn

Basil ice cream
Eastside Inn, 40 St John Street, London, EC1M 4AY, 020 7490 9230, www.esilondon.com

Going to a really good restaurant for a second time is a bit like reading a hot new author’s second novel, or buying that difficult second album. There’s a nagging worry that it’s not going to live up to the excitement of the first visit, that everything will seem a little duller than your nostalgically polished memories.

So it was with a little trepidation and some excitement that we popped back to the Eastside Inn for dinner. Imagine my delight when not only was it as (metaphorically) glittering as it was first time round, but there had been changes. Good changes. Continue reading

Bistro Bruno Loubet

Potted shrimp and smoked mackerel
86-88 Clerkenwell Road, London, EC1M 5RJ, 020 7324 4455, www.thezetter.com/en/Restaurant

Here is somewhere that’s made the critical cup overfloweth with stars and top ratings, ten-out-of-tens and complements aplenty. This, it seems, is the return of the prodigal son.

Whatever. He’s back, Bruno Loubet has returned from Oz. And boy – judging by the reviews – are the critics glad to see him. All of which, you’d think, would lead to a mighty anti climax when you actually ate there. Right? Well… not really. Continue reading

The Eastside Inn Bistro

Orange souffle

I’m going to start by saying that the Eastside Inn Bistro had a lot to live up to. It’s been reviewed very favourably by London Eater and Catty, and I had heard great things about chef Bjorn van der Horst when he was at Noisette.

Taking all the above into account I went along expecting something special. But was worried that it would be merely good. Or worse. Special though, is exactly what we got. Continue reading