Category Archives: Travel

Walking the Dragon’s Backbone: the rice terraces of Ping’an

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Working the paddy fields

It’s not often you find yourself walking along a dragon’s spine. Curled protectively around the village of Ping’an in south western China, this particular beast is formed by row after serried row of rice terraces carved into the hills. The summits forming a spine along the ridge high above. Mist drifts across the water-logged paddy fields and stone paths, the breath of a sleeping giant.

We were winding our way along the sinuous curves of Longsheng’s terraced hillsides. From one summit you can look across the Nine Dragons and Five Tigers, hills that have been terraced from base to summit. From the other you see Seven Stars and Moon, constellations of flooded rice paddies reflecting the sky. Continue reading →

Shangli: an ancient Sichuan trading town

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Roadway

At nine o’clock sharp a swoosh of sheets being pulled off tables sounded across the ancient wooden town. Then there was a communal rustling as bottoms settled into chairs. Finally a deafening click-clacking echoed through the stone streets. It was mahjong time in Shangli.

Dinner was finished and the entire town was at it. They would stay at it until the early hours. Every night. My nightmares echoed with the sound of mahjong tiles being rattled around by electric tables. Accompanied by a concentrated sucking on cigarettes, clinking of tea cups or whiskey glasses and much muttering. Continue reading →

Chengdu: urban hell and culinary heaven

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Plates of skewers lined up ready for grilling

I looked out over the vast expanse of rotting concrete appartment blocks and crumbling office buildings. They peered back from under the blanket of gritty polluted fog that lay over the city. Billious clouds floated low and heavy overhead. The immense hazy city sprawled right out to far horizon and beyond.

We were driving over a multi-laned highway from the airport, raised high above the spread out mass of Chengdu. It was vast, dirty and looked like it had sprung from the dystopian imagination of William Gibson. The food had better be as good as they say, I reflected as the road dipped, and we slipped into the city. Continue reading →

Is it right to travel to countries with oppressive governments?

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A woman and her baby in Tibet

Sharp eyes look over at me from under an olive green helmet. I see fingers momentarily tighten around the but of a tear gas gun. Our guide had said “no photos of soldiers”. I hesitate then slide my camera back into the case. I was aiming at a shop across the street, but don’t want my camera confiscated at the very start of my trip.

Am I giving in to the oppresive nature of Chinese government in Tibet? Well, yes I am. But what would it do any good to snap away and get chucked out? This is a difficult post to write and it’s taken me some time to gather my thoughts. Is it wrong to visit somewhere with an oppressive government, somewhere the locals consider as occupied territory? Continue reading →

Eating my way around Tibet

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Stone pot cooking

Laid out in front of me are plates piled high with all sorts of goodies: delicate translucent momos, mutton sausages, yak tongue, lung and tripe, a cinnamon laced dry yak curry, tea smoked roast duck, string beans. And Temba, our guide, is talking in Tibetan to the waitress ordering yet more plates. My stomach is rumbling in anticipation. I pick up my chopsticks and dig in.

It’s the end of two weeks of hard driving and we’re sat in Phin Tsok Ge Don in Lhasa enjoying a meal in a restaurant packed with Tibetans. They’re singing, laughing, shouting and generally creating a happy cacophony. It’s a world away from tables of tourists poking at their food, grimacing at the taste of yak butter tea and wondering whether they should stick with the omelette. Continue reading →

Eastern Tibet: cloud forests, tranquil lakes and tall tales

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Prayer flags over the lake

Within an hour or so of leaving Lhasa’s bustling streets we’re already passing groups of pilgrims. Some are face down on the road, hands clasped above their heads. Others are in the process of throwing themselves down. Still more, particularly children, stand still and wave at us as we whiz by.

When I think back to Lhasa, which for all its ancient Tibetan heart, has the feel of a modern-day frontier city, I’m astonished how different things are once you’re past the city limits. It’s hard to believe, coming from a “developed” country, how easy it is to step from one world to another. Continue reading →

Lhasa: starting the Tibetan journey

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Pilgrim

A chill wind cuts down from Himalayan peaks through the valley. Dry and merciless, it strips moisture from exposed skin. The altitude leaves you struggling for breath and pausing every few steps to gulp down mouthfuls of thin air. And there’s a dull ache squatting somewhere behind your forehead and above your neck. Even at the lowest points of Tibet – and at 3,600m Lhasa is far from the loweest point – the effects of thin Himalayan air are apparent.

But – and there’s always a “but” when it comes to material discomfort in Tibet – it´s all forgotten the moment the Potala hoves into view. Ubiquitous military patrols armed with tear gas guns and fire extinguishers, shotgun-toting paramilitaries, flash Toyota land cruisers with blacked out windows. They all fade the moment you see the 450 year old palace, enthroned atop its hill, towering over the encroaching city.

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A Tour of Asia

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Hi, it’s me again, Mr Noodles from Eat Noodles Love Noodles. I’m doing a spot of blogsitting for my old mate, The Grubworm, whilst he and his missus trot the globe.

I’m more than a bit jealous, as I’d love to take some time off to go on an extended trip to soak in the food and culture of faraway lands. Wouldn’t we all? So why don’t we? Let’s do it, let’s take an imaginary tour of Asia, starting in… Continue reading →

Foiled by the Great Firewall of China

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Beijing bedroom

A quick announcement from The Grubworm. We’re here in Beijing, and what an interesting (if polluted) city it is so far. At least, the small hutong area we’re staying in tonight is.

Sadly we can’t get Twitter or Facebook (or even Posterous) in China at the moment which somewhat stymies my updating plans for keeping you all in the loop. However… all is not lost! You will still see me here (wifi and computer allowing) and also on Tumblr at: thegrubworm.tumblr.com.
Continue reading →