Monthly Archives: October 2010

Steamed aubergine in an intense spicy and nutty sauce

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Steamed spicy aubergines

Smooth. Slithery. Soft. The texture of well cooked aubergines is their defining characteristic. More so than the gently nutty flavour, the pendulous shape, the glorious shades of purple. The main thing aubergines really bring to a dish is their delightfully soft and fleshy texture.

Not to minimise the taste, which neatly side steps big bullying flavours to come through, between and around them, linking and accentuating as it goes. Clever things aubergines. This particular ugly duckling of a dish, a marriage to an intense, pungent and spicy sauce, highlights this rare ability to shine through. Continue reading →

Caravan on Exmouth Market

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Triumphant cornbread at Caravan

For centuries great caravans crossed the shimmering sands of the Sahara, laden wonders bound for the great trading cities of the Mediterranean: Istanbul, Tripoli, Venice and Cairo. It was a hazardous and hot route and inevitably some of the goods didn’t quite make it.

And that was what happened when we ate at Caravan, a bar-restaurant kind of place the in foodie oasis of Exmouth market. There were some winners and some duds. Some humble dishes that revealed wonders, and some exotic sounding creations that were a let down. Continue reading →

Sichuan style fish flavoured pork

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Sichuan fish flavoured pork

Let’s get the obvious bit out of the way first shall we. No, there is no fish in fish flavoured pork. It’s called that because it uses a mix of flavours and aromatics that are commonly used in seafood dishes. What it does have is a wonderful, and powerful, combo of intense flavours.

I was put in the mood for  Sichuan (not that it takes much) by this recipe over at Hollowlegs’ blog. It was kind of a last minute affair so had to improvise. After all, where can you find cloud ear mushrooms at 8pm on a cold Monday night in NE London? Continue reading →

Fernandez and Leluu: a supper club supreme

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Mix and match at Fernandez and Leluu

The whole table erupted with laughter and I, a little tipsily, reached for the bottle of wine and found, to no-one’s surprise, that it was empty. I was still reeling a little from the concentrated aromatic hit of Pho (who knew that broth could be that good).

As I leaned back in my chair, my eyes blearily roaming the table for another bottle, more food was brought out – great plates of shiny sleek fresh tuna and bowls that, by their salty fried aroma were full of chips. Greedy Diva, Slow Food Kitchen, Vintage Macaroon and I all looked at one another sharing a moment of foodie appreciation before someone said something and we all burst out laughing again. Continue reading →

Pear stilton and hazelnut salad

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Pear and stilton salad

A salad may not be the first thing that comes to mind when gloweringly grey skies close in and rain starts plopping down. But bear with me here, because this salad is no wishy-washy, lighter-than-light, sunny day food. No sir.

There are pears (more of the buggers from the tree), nuts, and – the not-very-secret weapon that makes this a great autumnal dish – great creamy lumps of gooey blue-veined stilton. All smooth and strong with a hint of sharpness, the James Bond of the cheese world. Continue reading →

Tarte Tatin: A tarte with heart and loads of apples & pears

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Pear and apple tarte tatin

Autumn is here and boy, it’s here with a vengeance. Rain is dripping off our over-laden pear tree and the sky is glowering, heavily gray. I’m not usually a dessert kinda guy, but this calls for some sort of pick-me-up. Something involving those pears and the mountain of home-grown apples from the in-laws’.

I love home grown fruit, much much more than the technicolour, perfectly proportioned but anaemic bimbo stuff in the supermarkets. Even more than the more earthy knobbly and flavourful types you find in farmers markets. No apple tastes as good as one plucked fresh from the branch. Cliched, but true. Continue reading →