Monthly Archives: September 2010

BobBobRicard

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Quail eggs with truffles

Imagine, if you will, walking into an end-of-the-world Wiemar cabaret, a bright salon on the eve of a revolution. The air rich with decadence and possibility, and the clear whiff of luxury.

That’s how it felt, dining in the idiosyncratic, somewhat timeless BobBobRicard. The Wonkerish “press for champagne” button, the Pullman booths, the truffle, champagne and caviar laden menu. And of course there’s Leonid (aka Bob) leaning rakishly against our green leather booth. “Champagne?” he said, “after all, it is Wednesday.” Continue reading →

Prawn and coconut curry

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Prawn coconut curry

A good curry is like a huge, enveloping embrace from an old friend. The is something so warming, inviting and downright friendly about the combo of heat, spice and sauce that I just can’t get enough.

It’s also something that, more than other foods, tastes totally different when you make it at home to when you eat it out. Maybe it’s the ghee, the quantities, or maybe it’s just the way I cook ‘em. Who cares, the end result is very tasty.
Continue reading →

World weariness and chicken soup

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Chicken noodle soup

Drugs, medicine, alcohol, all those things that soothe and relax the body when you’re feeling aches and pains, they’re really complicated. It’s not as if you can rustle up a bottle of sauvignon from scratch at a moments notice. The same goes for a paracetamol, a pint of decent beer or valium.

Thank goodness for chicken soup. It’s at least as effective as a glass of wine if you’re feeling shitty. The savoury aroma of fresh broth bubbling on the hob is as effective a relaxant for me as hearing a cork being pulled from a wine bottle (is that tragic? probably). Continue reading →

Hix Soho … or was it?

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Rack of hogget at Hix Soho

Stuffed sea gulls hanging from the roof, a blood pudding and potato dish called “heaven and earth”, “professional mentalist” Derren Brown in the basement. Surely this was a weird dream brought about by tiredness or a red meat deficit?

But what if it wasn’t, what if I only thought I was eating out with ol’ Derren in the basement, what if I were really on stage in the Albert Hall, hypnotised by the illusionist into thinking I was eating in Soho? And my thoughts just kept on coming back to that stuffed seagull, and the upside down cake-mobile describing slow circles over my head. Continue reading →

Gnocchi with a vegetable ragu

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Gnocchi with a veggie ragu

I don’t know about you, but I’m starting to feel the damp tendrils of Autumn approaching. There are a few leaves starting to turn brown and spiral desultorily to the pavement. And mornings are noticeably cooler.

Not that this is a bad thing, not least because I was an Autumnal baby and feel an affinity with this time of year. And, because I like to eat to suit the season, I can cook more substantial food like gnocchi. Although I like to retain a bit of summery lightness. Continue reading →

Goodbye Eastside Inn

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Veal chop at The Eastside Inn

It’s always sad when a much loved place closes its doors. Doubly so when it’s unexpected. So it was with some sadness, and not a little shock, that I found out on Twitter last week that Eastside Inn has closed its doors for good.

The surprising bit is that it was a great place. The food was excellent and the service spot on. But then, maybe that’s why. Overheads in central London must be prohibitively expensive and ESI was a big space. Continue reading →

Pan fried seabass, lentils and a sort-of-salsa

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Seabass lentils

Land of the Rising Sun? Maybe. Land of the Myriad Fish? Definitely. I’ve just got back from three weeks with the greatest fish eaters on the planet. And, with an anthropological appetite for joining the natives, I consumed anything piscine that came my way. Except whale sperm.

Returning to the UK, still in awe of the selection of sparklingly fresh fish on display in Japan, I perused the fish counter in Waitrose with dismay. For an island nation we have an inexplicable lack of fishy passion. The usual suspects stared dully up at me.  Salmon, cod, mackerel, herring, haddock,  sea bass. Continue reading →