The View

Turbot with a lobster sauce and fennel mash
Treninnow Cliff Road, Milbrook, Cornwall, PL10 1JY 01752 822345

Perched atop a cliff looking out over waves rolling in to Whitsand Bay in Cornwall, The View was a most unexpected gem. Forget Jamie’s 15 in Newquay, or Steinsville in Padstow, this remote restaurant is where you’ll get the best of Cornish cooking, and in a setting that knocks the socks off any other.

Housed in cabin, rather nondescript from the outside, are a scattering of plain tables on a warm wood floor, surrounded by white walls hung with local art. And some of the most consistently well cooked – and freshest – fish I’ve eaten in a long time.

And the setting really is spectacular. You sit there, eating fish caught by trawlers out of nearby Looe, to a beautiful backdrop of wide sea and sky, the small stone fisherman’s chapel sitting on Rame head to the east.

Owners Matt and Rachel Horne are obviously living a dream because this is not the sort of place you would expect to see cooking of this quality. The selection is seasonal, veering towards fish and seafood in the spring and summer, and more meaty fare in the winter.

Marinated salmon with Cornish crab and pickled ginger
Marinated salmon, Cornish crab and pickled ginger

The setting might be distracting were it not for the food. The menu is simple and straightforward and changes daily (I know, I went twice in two days). The dishes themselves are deceptively simple, with classics like seared scallops on puy lentils and bacon mixed in with the odd Asian influence as in the salmon dish above.

Of the starters, my favourite was definitely the salmon, although the scallops ran it close. Laid out in slim layer, the salmon had been gently marinated and was fatty smooth and unctuous. The crab added a sea inflected meatiness while the ginger really spritzed things up. It was fabulous.

Of the other starters, the scallops were meaty and sweet, with bacon providing a salty contrast. The terrine was deliciously meaty and a watermelon and feta salad was fresh and very tasty, the melon flesh standing up to the cheese.

Lemon sole with king prawns and asparagus
Lemon sole with king prawns, asparagus and garlic butter

Of the mains, all were delicious. Turbot, which came on fennel mash with a lobster sauce, and the lemon sole above were beautifully cooked. Moist and full of flavour, you could tell they were not long out of the ocean. Local hake with peas, beans and shallots was a big and flaky, and again, super fresh. This freshness, combined with Matt Horne’s light touch in the kitchen and the setting, mean eating here is very memorable.

Desserts lived up to the rest of the meal, hot chocolate mousse was the winner for me, smooth and rich chocolate mixed with cold and creamy vanilla ice cream. The contrast of hot and cold, creamy and chocolaty was luxurious.

Hot chocolate mousse with vanilla ice cream
Hot chocolate mousse with vanilla ice cream

Three courses cost in the region of £25 a head, which for the quality of the food and the location, is a real bargain. So next time you are on your way West, don’t bypass this beautiful and uncrowded part of Cornwall. Stop, eat and enjoy an unhurried lunch or watch the sun set over dinner.

10 Responses to “The View”

  1. Mathilde's Cuisine

    Oh my god, it looks like the perfect meal for me! Fish and seafood, this place is made for me… without forgetting the chocolate mousse!

  2. Niamh

    This looks lovely and is bargainous! I will add to my list. Did you go to Watergate Bay at all? I really liked Fifteen, the Beach Hut & the Brasserie at the hotel. A little food nook I thought.

  3. Mr Noodles

    So so so jealous. This is the exactly the kind of stuff that I would’ve loved to eaten in Oslo last week but didn’t. And good to see hake on the menu, a much underrated fish that the Spanish love but we are seemingly indifferent to.

  4. The Grubworm

    @Mathilde – it was wonderful, and if only i had a picture of the view… check out their website, it’s the background the page. Really special indeed. In the evenings they only do 15 covers so everyone gets a seat by the window (or outside if they like). They really emphasise service and quality over profit i think.

    @Niamh – it is, it is! I didn;t go that far west, we just stayed in this wee little village in the very SE corner of Cornwall, the bit everyone misses as they head west. It’s a quite and special corner.

    @Mr Noodles – it was really very good, shame about Oslo. The hake was local which is really good to. Other people I ate with thought that was the best of the dishes

  5. Leluu

    cheeeeezzzzzzz – Grubworm – I almost hate you!! for have been to my favourite place in the whole world : cornwall – then eating all that delish! green with envy!

  6. meemalee

    “Thou shalt have a fishy on a little dishy;

    Thou shalt have a fishy when the boat comes in”

    Your post made me want to sing :)

  7. The Grubworm

    @leluu – Cornwall is ace, took me a while to start really appreciating it after spending the first 18 years of my life there though… This part is gorgeous, 3hrs on the Train from London and everyone else bypasses it. Magical.

    @meemalee – do the fishy ditty with the fishy ditty dance! Glad i provoked music!

  8. Maninas

    It really sounds fantastic! Thanks for the tip off!

    Btw, have you been to the Wave in St Ives? We went there a couple of years ago and looooved the food!

  9. Maninas

    I just realised this is fairly close to Plymouth. We have family there, and have meant to go this summer. Somehow, I’m even more tempted to go and visit now! ;D

  10. The Grubworm

    @Maninan – no worries, and it is indeed near Plymouth. It’s probably about a 40 minute drive (you have to go round the houses via the Tamar Bridge and St Germans. Or you can take the Cawsand Ferry from The Hoe to Cawsand and then walk an hour round the coastal path to get there. Stunning walk. Definitely worth a trip.

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